Conclusion
The in vitro and clinical results presented in this article show that XEP™-716 Miniprotein™ is a potent ingredient to rejuvenate the DEJ and dermis of mature skin.
Methods
In vitro, the skin rejuvenation properties of XEP™-716 Miniprotein™ were studied by quantification of well-known dermal components such as collagen type I, hyaluronic acid and elastin. At the clinical level, we used a non-invasive technique, the confocal laser scanning microscopy (CLSM) system, which enabled non-invasive morphological characterization of skin structures (stratum corneum thickness, viable epidermis, full epidermis, dermal-epidermal junction, papillae, dermal collagen density) and high-frequency ultrasonography to quantify the dermal density and thickness, which are useful parameters for quantifying rejuvenating effects on skin. Lastly, a cutometer was used to assess the skin's biomechanical properties, mainly firmness and elasticity. This monocentric double-blind, split-face, randomized, placebo-controlled clinical trial compared the active ingredient XEP™-716 Miniprotein™ in a vehicle on one hemiface versus vehicle alone on the other (placebo) and enrolled panelists aged 40 to 60 years old. All measurements were carried out on the malar area before and after 28 and 56 days of twice daily application of a cosmetic cream formulation containing either 2.5% or 5% XEP™-716 Miniprotein™. The skin rejuvenating properties were demonstrated by studying dermo-epidermal junction (DEJ) flattening reduction using the measure of two parameters by CLSM: the DEJ length and number of edged papillae. Dermis rejuvenation was assessed by measuring the collagen fiber perimeters (CLSM), dermal density and dermal thickness (ultrasonography).
Results
The in vitro results confirmed the ability of XEP™-716 Miniprotein™ to stimulate the key extracellular macromolecules, namely collagen type I, hyaluronic acid and elastin, at a level comparable to that induced by TGF beta growth factor. The clinical data showed that after 28 and 56 days of topical XEP™-716 Miniprotein™ application, there was a statistically significant increase of DEJ length, number of edged papillae and collagen fiber perimeters. At the same time point, the B-scan images of facial skin showed a statistically significant increase of dermal density and thickness. These results reveal that the DEJ became more undulated and tightly attached to the dermis, while the papillary dermis was densified, both traits being typical characteristic of younger skin. Rejuvenation was also confirmed by an improvement of skin firmness and elasticity.