Abstract
Crossbred wool is widely used in the textile and clothing fields. Nevertheless, the surface roughness of crossbred wool fabric is higher than that of Merino wool. Herein we propose a reactive nonionic softener (RNS) based on fatty acid (FA) and 2-amino-2-methyl propane diol (AMPD) to impart desirable multi-functions for crossbred wool fabric, such as improved smoothness, enhanced wettability, and induced resistance to felting shrinkage. Adopting the pad-dry-cure method, treatment of wool with the said softener was carried out using different concentrations of FA/AMPD condensate at different curing temperatures and durations. The results showed that the highest fabric surface smoothness was attained when wool fabric was treated with 3.5% (o.w.f.) RNS, and the curing temperature and time were 130 °C and 5 min, respectively. The surface smoothness of the treated fabric and its resistance to felting shrinkage were increased by 21.7% and 90% respectively. The effects of treatment of wool with the RNS on its bending stiffness, air and water permeability, yellowness, electrostatic charge, and ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) were monitored. The reaction mechanism between the used RNS and wool was studied using FTIR spectroscopy. Scanning electron microscopic investigation showed a layer of the used RNS on the surface of the treated fabric. The finished fabric retained its air permeability and dyeability with anionic dye. The imparted fabric smoothness was find to be durable against washing until 5 washing cycles, and decreased by 5.5% of after 10 washing cycles respectively.