Abstract
We investigated how acclimatization effects achieved during a high-altitude alpinist expedition influence endurance performance, ventilation ([Formula: see text]) and blood oxygen saturation (SaO(2)) in normoxic (NOR) and hypoxic conditions (HYP). An incremental testing protocol on a cycle ergometer was used to determine the power output corresponding to the Lactate (P(LT)) and Ventilatory Threshold (P(VT)) in NOR and HYP (FiO(2)=0.13) as indirect characteristics of endurance performance in both conditions. Furthermore, changes in [Formula: see text], SaO(2), blood pH and P(co2) were measured at a similar absolute exercise intensity of 180 W in NOR and HYP conditions. Seven experienced alpinists (mean ± SD: age: 50 ± 6 yrs; body mass: 76 ± 5 kg; body height: 175 ± 8 cm) volunteered to participate in this study after they had reached the summit of Gasherbrum II and Ama Dablam. They had therefore experienced the limitations of their acclimatization. Individual differences of P(LT) between values reached after and before the expedition (∆P(LT)) correlated (r = 0.98, p = 0.01) with differences of SaO(2) (∆SaO(2)) in HYP, and differences of P(VT) (∆P(VT)) correlated (r = -0.83, p = 0.02) with differences of [Formula: see text] in HYP. The results suggest that the acclimatization may not have an equivocal and simple influence on the performance in hypoxia: enhanced blood oxygen saturation may be accompanied by increased endurance only, when the increase exceeded 2-3%, but enhanced ventilation, when increased more than 10 l/min in HYP, could detrimentally influence endurance.