Abstract
Oxidative stress plays a major role in the skin aging process through the reactive oxygen species production and advanced glycation end products (AGEs) formation. Antioxidant ingredients are therefore needed in the skin care market and the use of molecules coming from plant cell cultures provide a unique opportunity. In this paper, the features of an hydroethanolic extract obtained by Jasminum sambac cells (JasHEx) were explored. The antioxidant and anti-AGE properties were investigated by a multidisciplinary approach combining mass spectrometric and bio-informatic in vitro and ex vivo experiments. JasHEx contains phenolic acid derivatives, lignans and triterpenes and it was found to reduce cytosolic reactive oxygen species production in keratinocytes exposed to exogenous stress. It also showed the ability to reduce AGE formation and to increase the collagen type I production in extracellular matrix. Data demonstrated that JasHEx antioxidant properties were related to its free radical scavenging and metal chelating activities and to the activation of the Nrf2/ARE pathway. This can well explain JasHEx anti-inflammatory activity related to the decrease in NO levels in LPS-stimulated macrophages. Thus, JasHEx can be considered a powerful antioxidant booster against oxidative stress-induced skin aging.