Abstract
This paper explores the intersection of colorimetry and biomimetics in textile design, focusing on mimicking natural plant colors in dyed textiles via instrumental colorant formulation. The experimental work was conducted with two polyester substrates dyed with disperse dyes using the exhaustion process. Textiles dyed with different dye colors and concentrations were measured in a spectrophotometer and a database was created in Datacolor Match Textile software version 2.4.1 (0) with the samples' colorimetric properties. Colorant recipe formulation encompassed the definition and measurement of the pattern colors (along four defined natural plants), the selection of the colorants, and the software calculation of the recipes. After textile dyeing with the lowest expected CIELAB color difference (ΔE*) value recipe for each pattern color, a comparative analysis was conducted by spectral reflectance and visual assessment. Scanning electron microscopy and white light interferometry were also used to characterize the surface of the natural elements. Samples dyed with the formulated recipe attained good chromatic similarity with the respective natural plants' colors, and the majority of the samples presented ΔE* between 1.5 and 4.0. Additionally, recipe optimization can also be conducted based on the colorimetric evaluation. This research contributes a design framework for biomimicking colors in textile design, establishing a systematic method based on colorimetry and color theory that enables the reproduction of nature's color palette through the effective use of colorants.