Abstract
The growing interest of consumers in natural products contributes to the increasingly widespread use of plant extracts as carriers of active ingredients in cosmetic formulations. Among plant materials, grape pomace, which remains after wine production, is of particular importance due to its known high bioactive compounds content. Micelle-assisted extraction was used to effectively extract these compounds. The aim of this study was to investigate the potential of various surfactants in the extraction process for cosmetic application. It was particularly important that the surfactants were borrowed from the final formulation of the designed cosmetic preparations. The concept of loan extraction for the production of cosmetics was described. The influence of the type of surfactants on the extraction efficiency was assessed by determination of individual phenolic compounds, amino acids and sugars using LC-MS/MS, as well as by determination of the total phenolic content and antioxidant activity using UV-VIS. The results obtained confirmed that the type of surfactants has a significant impact on extraction efficiency. The studies conducted proved that the application of the concept of loan extraction in the production of hygiene cosmetics, as exemplified by shower gels, enables the production of safe and natural products with reduced skin irritant potential.