A Novel Approach in Skin Care: By-Product Extracts as Natural UV Filters and an Alternative to Synthetic Ones

皮肤护理的新方法:副产品提取物作为天然紫外线过滤剂和合成过滤剂的替代品

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作者:Sara M Ferreira, Sandra M Gomes, Lúcia Santos

Abstract

The cosmetic industry has been focusing on replacing synthetic ingredients with natural ones, taking advantage of their bioactive compounds. This work assessed the biological properties of onion peel (OP) and passion fruit peel (PFP) extracts in topical formulations as an alternative to synthetic antioxidants and UV filters. The extracts were characterized regarding their antioxidant capacity, antibacterial capacity and sun protection factor (SPF) value. Results revealed that the OP extract exhibited better results, which can result from the high concentrations of quercetin, as identified and quantified in HPLC analysis. Afterward, nine formulations of O/W creams were produced with minor changes in the quantity of additives: OP and PFP extract (natural antioxidants and UV filters), BHT (synthetic antioxidant) and oxybenzone (synthetic UV filter). The stability of the formulations was determined for 28 days; it was verified that they remained stable throughout the study period. The assays of the formulations' antioxidant capacity and SPF value revealed that OP and PFP extracts have some photoprotective properties and are excellent sources of antioxidants. As a result, they can be incorporated in daily moisturizers with SPF and sunscreens replacing and/or diminishing the quantities of synthetic ingredients, reducing their negative effects on human health and the environment.

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