Abstract
Natural bioactives are mixtures of compounds extracted from plants with physicochemical properties that are usually not favorable for penetrating the skin's complex barrier. Nanoparticles have important advantages both in dermatology and cosmetology: improved solubility and stability of encapsulated phytocompounds, controlled and sustained skin delivery, and enhanced skin permeation, leading to an improved bioavailability. This review focuses on two generations of lipid-based nanoparticles: solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs) and nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs). An extensive overview on the recent studies on SLNs and NLCs entrapping essential oils, oils, herbal extracts, and phytocompounds for topical applications is presented, emphasizing their composition, physicochemical characterization, efficacy, and methodologies used to evaluate them. This review also summarizes topical systems containing natural bioactives incorporated into SLNs and NLCs, commercially available products and registered patents in the field. SLNs and NLCs turn out to be effective nanocarriers for skin applications, offering significantly improved encapsulation efficiency, stability, and bioactives delivery. However, their full potential is underexplored. Future applications should study the encapsulation potential of new natural bioactives and show more specialized solutions that address specific requirements; an improved product performance and a pleasant sensory profile could lead to increased customer compliance with the product use.