Acute motor-cognitive responses to a bouldering fatigue protocol in indoor recreational climbers

室内休闲攀岩者对抱石疲劳方案的急性运动认知反应

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Abstract

OBJECTIVES: To evaluate the impact of an ecological bouldering fatigue protocol and quantify acute changes in climbing-specific motor performance and visuospatial working memory in indoor climbers. METHODS: Non-randomised pre-post study in 28 indoor boulderers (18 male, 10 females; 15-34 years). Participants attempted sex- and skill-matched problems on a 15° overhanging Kilter Board to volitional exhaustion. Pre- and post-fatigue assessments included finger-hang endurance, pinch-grip strength, explosive pulling power, static balance, upper-limb dynamic stability, and visuospatial working memory. RESULTS: The protocol achieved all feasibility criteria. The intervention produced physiological stress (heart rate +60 bpm from baseline: 118.9 ± 22.0 to 178.6 ± 11.1; RPE 14.7 ± 1.8) and forearm-related termination in 75%. Performance changes: finger-hang endurance -34.2% (d(z) = -0.85, p < 0.001); pinch-grip strength -5.8% (d(z) = -0.53, p = 0.009); explosive pulling power -4.8% (d(z) = -0.52, p = 0.010), and visuospatial working memory +16.4% (d(z) = 0.54, p = 0.008). Static balance and upper-limb stability showed trivial non-significant change. CONCLUSION: A brief, standardised, sex- and skill-matched bouldering protocol was feasible and induced climbing-specific fatigue. The observed improvement in visuospatial working memory challenges simple fatigue-impairment assumptions. This ecologically valid protocol provides a foundation for future work on motor-cognitive interactions and injury-relevant performance in climbing athletes.

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