Abstract
The skin is a complex and selective system from the perspective of permeability to substances from the external environment. Microemulsion systems have demonstrated a high performance in encapsulating, protecting and transporting active substances through the skin. Due to the low viscosity of microemulsion systems and the importance of a texture that is easy to apply in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical fields, gel microemulsions are increasingly gaining more interest. The aim of this study was to develop new microemulsion systems for topical use; to identify a suitable water-soluble polymer in order to obtain gel microemulsions; and to study the efficacy of the developed microemulsion and gel microemulsion systems in the delivery of a model active ingredient, namely curcumin, into the skin. A pseudo-ternary phase diagram was developed using AKYPO® SOFT 100 BVC, PLANTACARE® 2000 UP Solution and ethanol as a surfactant mix; caprylic/capric triglycerides, obtained from coconut oil, as the oily phase; and distilled water. To obtain gel microemulsions, sodium hyaluronate salt was used. All these ingredients are safe for the skin and are biodegradable. The selected microemulsions and gel microemulsions were physicochemically characterized by means of dynamic light scattering, electrical conductivity, polarized microscopy and rheometric measurements. To evaluate the efficiency of the selected microemulsion and gel microemulsion to deliver the encapsulated curcumin, an in vitro permeation study was performed.