Abstract
This article presents the results of a comprehensive material analysis of medieval decorative bands from two different excavations in present-day Poland, specifically from early medieval cemeteries in Gródek upon the Bug River and Pień. The bands are complex materials composed of various fibres and precious metals, dyed with natural dyes using recipes that are often unknown today. They represent rare archaeological finds, challenging to analyse not only due to the complexity of their structure and materials but also because of significant deterioration caused by exposure to environmental conditions and harmful substances present in the burial soil. Optical microscopy and scanning electron microscopy (SEM) facilitated the identification of raw materials, manufacturing techniques, and ornamentation. SEM coupled with energy-dispersive X-ray spectroscopy (EDS) was employed to analyse the metal threads, determine their elemental composition, and assess their preservation state. Natural dye identification was performed on selected objects using high-performance liquid chromatography combined with spectrophotometric detectors and tandem mass spectrometry with electrospray ionization (HPLC-UV-Vis-ESI-MS/MS). The analysis of these results enabled drawing conclusions regarding the origin of the bands and their manufacturing methods. The dating of the bands, based on ornamentation and manufacturing techniques, was confirmed by radiocarbon dating, indicating they date back to the 10th-12th centuries. They were produced using two weaving techniques, a narrow haberdashery loom and a tablet loom, primarily from silk and metal threads-silver and silver-gilt. Some materials consisted of red-dyed silk (using kermes or madder), including a metal thread core. The analysis also provided valuable insights into textile degradation, particularly the corrosion mechanisms affecting the metal threads.