Effects of Retinol, Natural Pea Peptide and Antioxidant Blend in a Topical Formulation: In Vitro and Clinical Evidence

外用配方中视黄醇、天然豌豆肽和抗氧化剂混合物的效果:体外和临床证据

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作者:Brian Cook, Melanie Riggs, K C Holley, Helen Knaggs, Ganesh Diwakar, Edwin D Lephart

Conclusions

The RTF in vitro analysis showed significant positive changes for several skin biomarkers, and the clinical assessment showed RTF significantly improved the visible signs of dermal aging, without irritation.

Methods

In vitro assessment of RTF on human skin co-cultures (human keratinocytes, melanocytes, and dermal fibroblasts) identified gene expression levels and skin biomarkers after 24 h exposure. An 8-week clinical study was conducted to evaluate once-nightly application of the RTF for short-term and long-term benefits in 30 adult subjects between 35 and 70 years of age (21 female, 9 male). Skin evaluations were conducted via bioinstrumentation (for hydration, transepidermal water loss and elasticity) and at 0, 1-, 2-, 4-, and 8-week self-assessment questionnaires and photo-imaging analysis were performed.

Results

RTF treatment of skin in vitro co-cultures upregulated aquaporin-3, PER1, collagen, and elastin, and downregulated expression of MMP1 and the pigmentation genes TYRP1 and MITF. The clinical assessment significantly improved hydration, transepidermal water loss, and elasticity along with incremental but significant increases in nine skin parameters (hydration, clarity, radiance/glow, smoothness, brightness, texture, appearance of pores, dark spots/hyperpigmentation, and skin tone evenness from baseline) with continuous use over 8 weeks compared to baseline values. Conclusions: The RTF in vitro analysis showed significant positive changes for several skin biomarkers, and the clinical assessment showed RTF significantly improved the visible signs of dermal aging, without irritation.

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