Objective and subjective hand properties of cotton soybean protein elastane and cotton cashmere elastane blended denim fabrics

棉豆蛋白弹性纤维和棉羊绒弹性纤维混纺牛仔布的客观和主观手感特性

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Abstract

In this study, the objective and subjective hand properties of cotton/cashmere elastane and cotton/soybean protein elastane including denim fabrics were compared each other and a reference 94% cotton 6% elastane sample with the same washings. The surface roughness, compressibility, drape, overall flexural rigidity, and shear rigidity of the fabrics were also evaluated. In addition, subjective roughness, fabric hand and hardness-softness perceptions were evaluated by a group of jury members according to reference sample. Soybean protein containing fabrics exhibited higher compressibility, drape, overall flexural rigidity, and shear rigidity than cashmere containing fabrics. The S-twill fabrics exhibited higher compressibility and shear rigidity than Z-twill fabrics. It was concluded that rinse washed fabrics showed the highest surface roughness and compressibility, while stone washed fabrics showed the highest shear rigidity in the + 45° direction, and enzyme washing samples had the highest shear rigidity value in the - 45° direction. Compared to the 94% cotton 6% elastane fabric, it was observed that the use of cashmere and soybean protein blended yarns in the weft direction caused a decrease in the weft surface roughness values, causing an increase in the compressibility, drape the overall flexural rigidity, and + 45° shear rigidity values.

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