Embayed beach configuration explained by wave sheltering

海湾沙滩形态的成因可解释为波浪遮蔽作用

阅读:1

Abstract

Embayed beaches, characterized by their distinctive planform curvature, are a common feature along coastlines worldwide. This study introduces a novel approach to describe bay shape that extends our understanding about the processes that control embayed beach development. The novel approach was thoroughly tested against one-line models and applied to real-world cases covering a wide range of spatial scales, wave climate conditions and geomorphological settings. Here we show that the equilibrium curvature of embayed beaches can be correctly described and explained by considering headland-provided offshore wave sheltering alone, without explicitly accounting for wave shoaling, refraction, diffraction, or longshore transport. This holds true as long as the offshore wave climate is accurately characterized, including complete information regarding the mean and the spread of the incoming wave direction. For narrow-banded dominant swell wave regimes, the inclusion of background wind sea components has been identified as crucial for predicting curvature in the more sheltered embayed domain. The presented model significantly contributes to the understanding of how waves shape embayed beaches.

特别声明

1、本页面内容包含部分的内容是基于公开信息的合理引用;引用内容仅为补充信息,不代表本站立场。

2、若认为本页面引用内容涉及侵权,请及时与本站联系,我们将第一时间处理。

3、其他媒体/个人如需使用本页面原创内容,需注明“来源:[生知库]”并获得授权;使用引用内容的,需自行联系原作者获得许可。

4、投稿及合作请联系:info@biocloudy.com。