Abstract
In the textile industry, cotton and polyester (PES) are among the most used fibres to produce clothes. The correct identification and accurate composition estimate of fibres are mandatory, and environmentally friendly and precise techniques are welcome. In this context, the use of near-infrared (NIR) and mid-infrared (MIR) spectroscopies to distinguish between cotton and PES samples and further estimate the cotton content of blended samples were evaluated. Infrared spectra were acquired and modelled through diverse chemometric models: principal component analysis; partial least squares discriminant analysis; and partial least squares (PLS) regression. Both techniques (NIR and MIR) presented good potential for cotton and PES sample discrimination, although the results obtained with NIR spectroscopy were slightly better. Regarding cotton content estimates, the calibration errors of the PLS models were 3.3% and 6.5% for NIR and MIR spectroscopy, respectively. The PLS models were validated with two different sets of samples: prediction set 1, containing blended cotton + PES samples (like those used in the calibration step), and prediction set 2, containing cotton + PES + distinct fibre samples. Prediction set 2 was included to address one of the biggest known drawbacks of such chemometric models, which is the prediction of sample types that are not used in the calibration. Despite the poorer results obtained for prediction set 2, all the errors were lower than 8%, proving the suitability of the techniques for cotton content estimation. It should be stressed that the textile samples used in this work came from different geographic origins (cotton) and were of distinct presentations (raw, yarn, knitted/woven fabric), which strengthens our findings.