Biophysical and Biological Tools to Better Characterize the Stability, Safety and Efficacy of a Cosmeceutical for Acne-Prone Skin

利用生物物理和生物学工具更好地表征易长痤疮皮肤的药妆品的稳定性、安全性和有效性

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作者:Sabrina Sommatis, Maria Chiara Capillo, Cristina Maccario, Elsa Liga, Giulia Grimaldi, Raffaele Rauso, Pier Luca Bencini, Stefania Guida, Nicola Zerbinati, Roberto Mocchi

Background

Acne is a widespread skin disease, especially among adolescents. Following the COVID-19 pandemic and the use of masks, the problem has been affecting a greater number of people, and the attention of the skin care beauty routine cosmetics has been focused on the "Maskne", caused by the sebum excretion rate (SER) that stimulates microbial proliferation. (2)

Conclusions

Rheology allows to simulate serum behavior at rest, extrusion and application, so the serum could be defined as having a solid-like behavior and being pseudoplastic. The preservative system is in compliance with the criteria of the reference standard. Biological effectiveness evaluation shows non-cytotoxic and irritant behavior with a good antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory activity of the formulation, supporting the effectiveness of the serum for acne-prone skin treatment.

Methods

the present study was focused on the rheological characterization and quality assurance of the preservative system of an anti-acne serum. The biological effectiveness (cytotoxicity-skin and eye irritation-antimicrobial, biofilm eradication and anti-inflammatory activity) was evaluated in a monolayer cell line of keratinocytes (HaCaT) and on 3D models (reconstructed human epidermis, RHE and human reconstructed corneal epithelium, HCE). The Cutibacterium acnes, as the most relevant acne-inducing bacterium, is chosen as a pro-inflammatory stimulus and to evaluate the antimicrobial activity of the serum. (3)

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