Abstract
Retinol is well-known anti-aging material in the cosmetics industry, owing to its proven superior efficacy both in vitro and in vivo. Despite its high efficacy, retinol is associated with limitations, such as skin irritation and its potential photodegradation. Retinol is converted into retinoid acid within cells, which then exerts a cellular response by activating both the retinoic acid receptor (RAR) and retinoid x receptor (RXR). Noting that RAR activity is associated with skin irritation and RXR activation alone can enhance skin-related indicators without inducing inflammation, we developed an alternative approach for skin anti-aging focusing solely on RXR activation. We found that combined treatment of andrographolide and Bidens pilosa extract successfully activated RXR alpha and enhanced RXRA gene expression. Moreover, we investigated their efficacy using dermal fibroblasts and keratinocytes and found that they enhanced the gene expression of extracellular matrix (ECM) proteins with anti-oxidant and anti-inflammation efficacies. Finally, in a human clinical trial, we confirmed that our materials successfully improved wrinkles in various areas, skin elasticity and hydration without causing irritating side effects. These findings highlight the potential of our RXR alpha-activating materials as an anti-wrinkle solution that avoids the typical side effects associated with retinol.