Abstract
Hydrolates, or floral waters, obtained from herbs are using for various purposes in medicinal and cosmetic industries. Biochemical characterization of many Artemisia species and their hydrolates, which has not been described before, is important for determining their unique properties for use as the main component in cosmetics. Five Artemisia species including Artemisia absinthium, Artemisia serotina, Artemisia nitrosa, Artemisia sublessingiana, Artemisia pauciflora were studied quantitatively and qualitatively, the content of moisture, ash, extractive substances was determined. Moreover, the mineral composition content, consist of macroelements (K, Na, Mg, Ca) and microelements (Cu, Zn, Fe, Mn) was determined using atomic adsorption spectroscopy. Their antioxidant properties were evaluated using DPPH, ORAC, and TBARS assays. Among them, A. nitrosa showed significant inhibition of LDL oxidation (IC(50) = 3.1 μM) in the TBARS assay, along with prolonged lag time of conjugated diene formation (>180 min) and substantial protection against LDL oxidation in the REM assay. The hydrolates of Artemisia species were obtained with the ultrasonic construction using optimal parameters. Moreover, the behavior of Artemisia hydrolates has been studied at various phase boundaries - surface tension, wetting and emulsifying properties. It was revealed that the composition of Artemisia hydrolates contains surface-active components. Measurements of the wetting properties of Artemisia hydrolates showed that they have increased hydrophilizing and, therefore, moisturizing ability, which in turn makes it possible to introduce them into cosmetics. In the result, the cosmetics such as a cream, gel, shampoo based on A. nitrosa hydrolates were obtained and their organoleptic properties were studied.